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Our Grooming & Facts about Wanting to Breed
We bought a GPS Tracker for one of our Doodles you may want one too
here is the link below ( unlike a Microchip you can find your dog in seconds ! The Microchip is great but..
only if someone turns your dog into a Vet or Rescue center where they can scan it
http://www.pettracker.com/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=Tagg-Launch&gclid=CMGO_IjPt60CFdGR7QodORzqnQ
Tips for Getting Rid of Fleas :
Use Tsp of Dawn Dish liquid to to lather up and bath Pup followed by your
dog shampoo, rinse well It will kill fleas
You can also use 1/4 Cup Pine Sol in
Qt water and rinse your dog all over with it before you bathe , it kills fleas on contact ! Rinse well
WE HAVE A MOBILE GROOMING VAN COME TO OUR HOME TO GROOM OUR DOODLES AND SCHNOODLES SCHNAUZERS AND POODLES
ITS SO MUCH EASIER ON US AND THE DOGS
DOGS CAN GET STRESSED AT A PET GROOMING SHOP AND A FEAR OF GOING
CALL TOM FOR INFO IF YOU ARE IN ORLANDO AREA FOR GREAT PRICES AND GREAT SERVICE !
Please tell your Groomer not to Poodle your Doodle they need a diff cut
I buy alot of my products at :
Petshed.com ( they have knock off's of the Les Pooch brush ) and are great and much less
http://www.1800petmeds.com/
We also Use:
I recommend a good Oatmeal and Aloe
Shampoo for Puppies
Neems Shampoo if you have a Flea Problem ( its Natural )
Oti Soothe or Other Brand of Ear Cleaner
( Ear Problems are cause of one or two things ) Not cleaning Ears on Weekly Basis , Food Allergies and Ear Mites
It is not unusal for your Doodle or Poodle to have Ear hair that can clog the ear canal and create nasty dark brown stinky wax, so ears should be plucked by groomer that can show you how to keep them clean by using EAR
POWDER If keeping ears clean does not take care of Ear issues then you may have a FOOD ALLERGY going on and need to switch dog foods to an all natural food with no wheat or fillers
You can buy these Items at all Pet Stores
DO NOT OVER BATH YOUR DOODLE YOU WILL STRIP NATURAL OILS FROM THEIR COAST
WE ONLY BATHE OUR DOGS EVERY 3 MONTHS
WEEKLY BATHS ARE VERY HARMFUL
HERE ARE ITEMS YOU NEED TO KEEP ON HAND OR WHEN BRINGING YOUR NEW PUPPY HOME :
Favorite Baby Blanket or Fleece for Crate
Squeaky Toys & Chew Bones ( no white Raw hide, only Pork hide )
Ear Cleaner
Cotton Balls for Ears
(do not use Q Tips)
Kaopectate for Diarreah
Pepto Bismo for Upset Tummy
Crate for Pup to sleep
Metal Wire Brush
Towels for Bathing
Oatmeal shampoo and or Flea Shampoo
( Doodles do not smell and therefore excessive bathing will strip hair of oil)
Nail Clippers ( I use reg nail clippers
for puppies until they get about 5 mo old)
Stainless Steel Bowls or Crock Bowl
(plastic harbors germs )
There are new Flea preventative items on market now in pill form talk to your vet about monthly flea pill
Comfortis and ProMeris
Always give your dog Heartguard on monthy basis and do not skip months
to prevent Heart Worm Diease
GREAT ARTICLE WRITTEN BY HELENE AT WESTWOOD DOODLES CONCERNING CUSTOMERS THAT ONLY WANT TO BREED ONCE
It also explains Why Ethical Breeders
have many more expenses than you may imagine when you Purchase your Puppy
One effect of the current popularity of Labradoodles and Goldendoodles
is that there is a whole group of people who want to have a litter or
two in order to supplement their income. Another group of folks have
such a great dog they want to have ‘just one litter’ in order to keep a pup for themselves or a family member. Yet another group want their
children to experience the miracle of birth, so plan just one litter to
provide that for their children.
If you have ever considered breeding dogs, for any reason, you may
want to look carefully before you leap. The financial commitments of
breeding are something you will want to become familiar with before
accepting. Those commitments SHOULD be the same whether you are planning on breeding just one litter, or planning on breeding for the
long term. The puppies you produce in just one litter are just as
important to the families that adopt them as the puppies that are
produce in a 10th or a 50th litter. The puppies from 'just one litter'
should be bred with the same care as any 'professional' would give the
effort.
This list of costs is not nearly complete, but may give you an idea of the actual bottom line for whelping a litter, after all is said and done. The assumption here is that you are planning on approaching this in a
responsible way, by testing your breeding stock, and offering support
to the owners of the puppies even after the puppies leave your hands.
Those are the hallmarks of a respectable, responsible breeder. If
breeding responsibly is not your intent, then nothing I say will dissuade you, as you share the morals of the bane of the dog world, the puppy mill. In that case, you probably WILL make a little money, at the expense of puppies lives, and the lives of those that love them.
Costs Prior to Delivery:
Health testing costs to screen for genetic disorders will vary depending
on whether you breed Labradoodles or Goldendoodles. This list is the
bare minimum of health tests, as other tests that merit being done are
not included. Good breeders often also do blood work to check for
thyroid function and also and cardiac ultrasounds, for example. But
let's start with the basics.
Hip tests:
PennHIP $300-600 depending on region of the country
OFA, Hip and elbows $150-300 depending on region CERF (eye exam by a certified veterinary opthamologist) $50-200 depending on region
PRA $165-195
von Willebrand’s $150
Brucellosis test, if natural breeding $75
Progesterone tests if AI $300
Shipping of semen if AI $300
Stud fee: Usually the price of one pup. Let’s be generous and say you
will get $1000 per pup, for F1 pups. Higher generations sell for more,
and the stud costs are much higher ($2000-$3000). Even if you plan
on selling the pups for much less, that is what the stud fee will run. If you don’t have an established name, you may HAVE to charge considerably less that the going rate per pup, despite the high stud fee.
Materials and Supplies: Whelping box, heat pads, heat lamps, scissors, thermometer, towels, baby scale, tweezers, hemostats, alcohol
pads, baby suction bulb.
Build your own whelping box, $30
Supplies,$200
So total ranges from $2500-$3200 before your girl has even delivered
her pups.
Expected Costs After Delivery
Milk replacement formula, baby bottles, tubes for tube feeding,
sterilizing solution, nail clippers $50
Puppy worm medication (2,4,6,& 8 weeks), puppy diarrhea medicine:
$50 or more
Food: a pregnant female needs about 4X what she normally eats, and a
lactating female will also need extra rations. Growing puppies are also
chow hounds. For a good quality kibble, probably $400 will be spent on
mom and pups from the time mom gets pregnant to the time pups go
to new homes
Vaccinations ( sets before pups go home) and Health Certificates
from Breeders Vet can be 100.00 per
Puppy and a litter of 8 pups can be
$ 800.00 to $ 1,000
Cost of Hot Water, Electricity and Soap to do 2-3 loads of puppy/dog
laundry every day for 8 weeks: Depending on region, $0.50 a load, $60
Electricity to keep pups warm:$50-200
Time off work to monitor mom and pups for first 5 days (minimum).:
Different for everyone, but likely to be at least $1000
Chewing supplies: Either $300 to repair the walls the pups will chew,
or $50 in dog toys!
Cleaning supplies: Puppies are pooping machines. Do you really want
to use your kitchen mop and bucket? Probably not. $30 for soap,
bleach and supplies.
Advertising to sell pups????
So total at least $1700 by the time the pups go home. And one more
thing. Many responsible breeders try to make sure the pups they breed
do not then produce pups that end up in shelters by having the pups
they breed spayed and neutered before they are sold. That is $150-250
PER PUP.
Doing the Math:
8 pups in an average litter, but neonatal deaths average 25%, so that’s
6 pups to sell. These deaths often occur many weeks after delivery,
after a fair bit of cash has already been invested in feeding and
worming and vaccinating them. Keeping one for yourself or a family
member? That’s one you can’t sell. So count on 5 pups to sell,
projected raw income $5000. Wow, that sounds good! Add up all the
expenses listed above(except the desexing, which not everyone does),
and total profit, if all goes well, roughly $800. This does not account
for all the time you spend talking with potential puppy buyers (you will
talk with at least 10 people for every one that actually buys a pup), all
the time spent cleaning, weighing, monitoring, handling and socializing
the puppies. This averages at least 4 hours of work every day for 8
weeks. And that is if all goes well. But look again:
Unexpected Costs
Emergency C-section: $1200
Emergency trip for eclampsia: $150 (often fatal if not caught early)
Treatment for mastitis $175
Treatment for pyometra (uterine infection) $250, and hopefully she
survives...
.pyometra is often fatal.
Vet visit for sick puppies :$150-$600
Vet visit for mom dog running a fever, having diarrhea, etc $200
These costs are unexpected, in that you cannot schedule them in, but
they are not uncommon. Anyone who has bred for any period of time
at all will tell you that one or more of these events happens in AT
LEAST 50% of litters. And sometimes more than one event in the same litter. Murphy’s Law is alive and well in the whelping world. So
let’s be optimistic and say you have $300 in unexpected costs. Profit is
down to $500.
Again, being optimistic, let’s say you got the full $1000 for each of the
5 pups, AND they all went home EXACTLY at 8 weeks, so you don’t have any extra food or vaccination costs for pups hanging around more than 8 weeks . And that IS optimistic. After the pups go home you get a call from an owner, or 2, who say their pup came home with ear mites, or worms, or coccidia, or giardia. A responsible breeder will always help you get medical attention and offer remedies and share cost if there is large medical expense
Then a year later an
owner calls, their pup has been diagnosed with severe hip dysplasia, or cataracts. Yep, it pops up despite our best efforts at choosing healthy
parents. A responsible breeder will replace the puppy have
some other reimbursement policy for genetic disorders. Now you are
most sincerely in the hole. Or another person calls and they are being transferred out of the country and can’t keep the dog. Will you take it back or let them surrender it to a shelter?
Sure, it is possible to skimp and shave costs. Use a cheap kibble, don’t take time off work and if mom squishes a pup, so be it. Don’t test your breeding stock and don’t offer a warranty. But doing that is what gives the term ‘backyard breeder’ such a bad connotation. Do it for more
than one litter and that makes you a puppy mill.
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